Scenery Archives - The Burbank Branch in N scale

Scratchbuilding a structure

By - admin
Posted on June 26, 2025June 26, 2025

Step-by-step on scratchbuilding a structure with styrene

I had wanted to embark into scratchbuilding a styrene structure for years but never did it properly. This time, I decided to model the Hendricks Builders Supply Company in Lankershim/North Hollywood.

This structure will be placed on the layout according to the trackplan.

Drawing

I started by drawing a rough plan on millimeter graph paper.

I used Evergreen styrene 4041 clapboard 1mm (.040″) sheets for the main walls.

Windows

I had some doors and windows on hand that matched the building’s style.

Using a nibbler tool, I cut out the door openings from the wall.

Then, using a small file I refined the door and window openings.

Scratchbuilding a structure needs some filing to refine the door openings

Test-fitting a window.

Gluing

The four main walls are ready to glue. I reinforced each corner with 2.5 mm Evergreen 175 styrene strips for stability.

Reinforcing the internal walls, ready to assemble

I used Tamiya Cement to glue the parts.

Two 2.5 mm strips also reinforce the middle of the structure.

Scratchbuilding a structure requires some internal reinforcements

I made the wooden door from clapboard styrene sheet and glued it inside the wall. On the outside, I added vertical styrene strips for detail. For smaller pieces, I used Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement.

Wooden door made of clapboard styrene sheet

To strengthen the loading platform, I inserted reinforcement strips underneath.

Then, I glued the platform to the main structure.

Scratchbuilding a structure. Loading platform glued to the main structure

Before adding the roof, I reinforced the center with a triangular styrene piece.

Scratchbuilding a structure: reinforcing the roof supports

Scratchbuilding a structure: Lighting

I wanted interior lighting, so I mounted a warm-white LED onto a small styrene support.

Scratchbuilding a structure: using an LED to light the structure

Roof

Then, I installed the roof. I used Vallejo Plastic Putty to fill a few gaps in the roof joint.

Scratchbuilding a structure: roof added.

I spray-painted the interior walls black to prevent light from bleeding through the thin styrene.

Scratchbuilding a Structure: Painting

I painted the roof with a few shades of Vallejo gray paint, and the walls with Vallejo Aged White (71.132).

Stratchbuilding a Structure: Weathering

I started weathering the walls by applying a dark brown acrylic wash.

Next, I added more streaks of brown paint to weather the roof.

Then, I glued the windows and the door in place. I used products made by the German firm Auhagen.

I added a piece of clear plastic to the inside of the windows.

Next, I applied the “Hendricks Builders Supply” sign on the structure side.

Scratchbuilding a structure: Hendricks Builders Supply Company

Here is a test-fit on the final location on the Burbank Branch in N scale layout.

Hendricks Builders Supply Company structure

Scratchbuilding a structure has been a rewarding project. While I had scratchbuilt a few simple structures before, this is the first time I completed a slightly more complex one.

The structure is not a perfect replica of the real thing; however, it works well as a rail-served industry and adds to the visual experience during operating sessions.

N Scale Diorama: Grass

By - admin
Posted on June 7, 2025June 7, 2025

Part II: Building an N scale diorama with static grass to test my modeling skills.

Before committing to adding scenery to my N scale layout, I want to build an N scale diorama featuring a section of static grass.

Click to read part I about ballast.

Static Grass Applicator

On this second part we’ll focus on applying static grass with a Noch Gras-Master 3.0 applicator.

I applied a first layer of 2 mm Woodland Scenics Straw static grass mixed with some Noch 2 mm green static grass, using Liquitex Matte Medium to glue it in place. I brushed on a random patch of glue, then loaded the Gras-Master with static grass and applied it over the glued area.

After the glue had dried, I applied a second layer of matte medium in a random patchwork and added 7 mm Woodland Scenics Straw static grass.

N Scale Diorama: Static Grass applied in two layers: 2mm and 7mm.

To create some variety, I mixed Light Green and Straw Woodland Scenics static grass. I applied both 7mm and 4mm layers.

Honestly, the result wasn’t as good as I’d hoped. I had better outcomes on previous layouts. The problem seems to be the sieve filters I used for the 7mm grass – the finest one isn’t ideal. I also switched to a 9V DC external power supply instead of using a battery.

Alternative Sieves and External Power Supply

Here’s the result of applying a mix of Light Green, Medium Green, and Straw static grass in roughly random proportions. I applied separate layers of 7mm and 4mm grass in different spots. I also kept the ground clip close to the applicator and moved it along during application.

Overall I am quite satisfied, but I wanted to add more variety to the grass. A few touch ups were necessary.

I used an airbrush to paint the grass with three different colors. Vallejo Light Green Chromate (71.006), Camouflage Medium Brown (71.038) and Beige (71.074).

I started with the green, then added beige, followed by brown. I sprayed a light, diluted coat in a random pattern to highlight a few spots here and there.

N Scale Diorama: Grass / Conclusions

I like the result. The final airbrush touch-ups helped break up the uniform color and add more variation and more realism.

Once again, working on an N Scale diorama proved to be a smart choice for experimenting with static grass. Before committing to applying grass on the full SP Burbank Branch in N scale layout, I fine-tuned the technique on a disposable base.

Backdrop Reboot

By - admin
Posted on April 10, 2025April 10, 2025

Backdrop reboot. Long story short: don’t be afraid of starting over.

It’s time for a backdrop reboot! I installed the valance and backdrop based on wall measurements, then installed the plywood subroadbed using a laser level. That’s when I realized the valance wasn’t level – and the culprit was the walls, not being square.

Free tip: Always use a laser level. They’re inexpensive and extremely useful – I wish I had bought one before installing the benchwork supports.

The backdrop is mostly fine, with only a small gap on the west end of the layout. However, the gap increases toward the east, as shown in the photo above. While the plywood base is level, the backdrop has a slight but steady incline.

At first, I thought I could fix it since the scenery isn’t done yet. But I quickly realized that the area I’m modeling is flat, with little vegetation – no hills or dense forests to hide the gap.

Backdrop reboot: huge gap between backdrop and plywood base.

I tried thinking of a solution, but the more I considered it, the more I realized the backdrop needs to be scrapped and redone from scratch. So I did.

Starting over

Backdrop reboot! I carefully unscrewed and removed the old backdrop, taking care not to damage the LED strip lights or valance. Then, I installed new Faesite (Masonite) panels, aligning the backdrop with the subroadbed plywood base.

Better looking gap between faesite (masonite) panels and plywood base

After installing the backdrop, I filled the gap with putty and smoothed it out. Now it’s ready for a coat of blue paint.

Using acrylic colors, I painted the plywood base tan. That serves as a basic color for the scenery.

Starting over can be frustrating, but fixing mistakes early prevents bigger issues later.

Fixing backdrop issues early builds confidence and prevents bigger layout problems down the line. A properly aligned backdrop sets the stage for convincing scenery.

Now I’m ready for some trackwork.

N Scale Diorama: Ballast

By - admin
Posted on March 11, 2025April 7, 2025

Part I: Building an N scale diorama to test my modeling skills

Before committing to adding scenery to the layout, I want to build an N scale diorama featuring a section of track with ballast, a road, vegetation, and a few details.

It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it should serve as a test of my modeling skills after a 15-year hiatus from model railroading.

Basic Trackwork

I glued a strip of EVA foam to a piece of plywood, then secured a section of Micro Engineering Code 55 flex track, which I’ll be using on the layout.

N scale diorama, EVA foam and flextrack glued

Painting

Next, I painted the track Railroad Tie Brown. I had two Polly Scale bottles from the late 2000s, and both held up surprisingly well.

Ballast

The next step was ballasting the track using Woodland Scenics Buff B1373. I used a technique I have relied on for years – first spreading the ballast over the track, then using both a soft brush and my fingers to evenly distribute it between the ties.

Then, I misted the ballasted track with a 50/50 mix of water and 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, letting it soak for a minute. After that, I used a syringe to apply a 50/50 mix of water and matte medium, slowly sliding it along the rails to glue down the ballast.

I used Liquitex Matte Medium, following the advice of YouTuber Boomer Diorama.

Woodland Scenics Fine Ballast and Liquited Matte Medium.

Ballast soaked with glue (50/50 water and Liquitex Matte Medium)

Here is the result of the N scale diorama with ballast after the glue have dried.

Weathering the N scale diorama track

For increased realism, I mixed dark brown powdered pigments with plaster of Paris in a 50/50 ratio to weather the area between the rails. Using a brush, I evenly distributed the mixture along the track with several strokes.

Spreading the powdered pigments and plaster of Paris mix with a brush.

Then, I misted the track with water, allowing the plaster to react and permanently set the weathering in place.

Misting the track to set the weathering powders

Starting Over the N Scale Diorama

Well, I wasn’t happy with the result. The ballast wasn’t evenly distributed, and some grains ended up on top of the ties. I also applied too much matte medium, which left a visible film on the rail sides. Long story short – it was a failure.

And I’m glad I failed. I’d rather make mistakes on a small N scale diorama than on the actual layout. That’s exactly why I built it – to test my skills, learn, and improve. So, I scraped off the ballast, removed the track, and started over.

Referring to other model railroads

I looked through photos of my previous layouts, and to my surprise, the ballast work wasn’t as good as I remembered. It wasn’t terrible, but I now aim for better results. So, I started studying photos and videos of other modelers’ layouts and sought advice on online forums.

One key takeaway was to use less ballast and spread it as evenly as possible. A helpful trick is tapping the tops of the rails with the same teaspoon used to pour the ballast – this helps it settle and compact for a more realistic finish.

I removed the EVA foam and trimmed it to be slightly narrower. Then, I glued it back down and secured the flex track with white glue.

N scale diorama: starting over with ballast.

Glueing down the ballast

The track looks a lot better now. I mist the ballast with the same 50/50 water and alcohol mix, and let it soaked. This time I used another method for glueing the ballast, again thanks to an online model railroading forum member. They suggested to mist the ballast, instead of using a pipette or syringe. I used the same 50/50 water and matte medium mix.

Misting the ballast with 50/50 water and matte medium mix

Then, I let it dry for a day. It looks much better than the first attempt.

N scale diorama, a much better ballasting job.

Weathering, Take two.

This time I used black powdered pigments, as brown blends better when mixed with yellow and it more suited for sidings or spurs. 50/50 mixed with plaster of Paris.

Black powdered pigments and plaster of Paris

Black powdered pigments and plaster of Paris mixed with a brush

With the same technique, I distributed the pigments between the rails with a flat brush.

Then, I misted the diorama with water, allowing the Plaster of Paris in the pigment mix to bond and permanently fix the track weathering.

Here is the final result after the pigments dried and the rail heads were cleaned. Maybe I could have gone lighter with the soot and grease weathering between the rails or used a 30/70 pigment-to-plaster mix instead of 50/50.

N scale diorama: ballast complete, track weathered and an SP Intermountain SD45-T2

Painting the backdrop sky blue

By - admin
Posted on February 6, 2025June 12, 2025

Using acrylic or latex paint with a soft roller is a quick way for painting the backdrop sky blue.

Painting the backdrop sky blue is a simple yet effective way to enhance the realism of a model railroad layout. The benchwork’s depth limits the world we can model; thus, the backdrop creates the illusion of extending the space.

There is a school of thought in model railroading that advocates for using a very light blue. The idea is that the backdrop should serve as a subtle foundation rather than a focal point.

This approach helps maintain realism and it enhances the illusion of depth without drawing unnecessary attention.

I used this particular brand of wall paint because it offers excellent coverage and a smooth, flat finish, perfect for creating a seamless backdrop. It’s made by Dulux, a British brand.

After sanding the backdrop panel joints, the backdrop is ready for a coat of paint.

First coat!

After the first coat of paint, I let it dry for about 24 hours before applying the second coat. I then waited another 24 hours before adding a third coat. Here is the backdrop after the paint has dried.

By using subtle colors and smooth transitions, the backdrop serves as a supporting element – complementing the scene rather than competing with it. In the end, the goal is not to create a detailed painting but to establish a convincing setting where the trains remain the focal point.

For added depth, distant mountains can be painted onto the backdrop, especially those characteristic of the San Fernando Valley, California. Soft, hazy outlines in muted earth tones can suggest the presence of the Santa Susana or Verdugo Mountains without overwhelming the scene.

Subtle atmospheric perspective – lighter tones and reduced detail – helps create a sense of distance. With careful shading and color transitions, the backdrop seamlessly integrates with the modeled environment, enhancing realism without distraction.