Month: June 2025

N Scale Diorama: Grass

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Part II: Building an N scale diorama with static grass to test my modeling skills.

Before committing to adding scenery to my N scale layout, I want to build an N scale diorama featuring a section of static grass.

Click to read part I about ballast.

Static Grass Applicator

On this second part we’ll focus on applying static grass with a Noch Gras-Master 3.0 applicator.

Noch Gras-Master 3.0 static grass applicator setup

I applied a first layer of 2 mm Woodland Scenics Straw static grass mixed with some Noch 2 mm green static grass, using Liquitex Matte Medium to glue it in place. I brushed on a random patch of glue, then loaded the Gras-Master with static grass and applied it over the glued area.

After the glue had dried, I applied a second layer of matte medium in a random patchwork and added 7 mm Woodland Scenics Straw static grass.

N Scale Diorama: Static Grass applied
2mm + 7mm static grass
N Scale Diorama: Static Grass applied in two layers: 2mm and 7mm.

To create some variety, I mixed Light Green and Straw Woodland Scenics static grass. I applied both 7mm and 4mm layers.

Honestly, the result wasn’t as good as I’d hoped. I had better outcomes on previous layouts. The problem seems to be the sieve filters I used for the 7mm grass – the finest one isn’t ideal. I also switched to a 9V DC external power supply instead of using a battery.

Alternative Sieves and External Power Supply

Here’s the result of applying a mix of Light Green, Medium Green, and Straw static grass in roughly random proportions. I applied separate layers of 7mm and 4mm grass in different spots. I also kept the ground clip close to the applicator and moved it along during application.

N Scale Diorama: Static Grass
N Scale Diorama: Static Grass

Overall I am quite satisfied, but I wanted to add more variety to the grass. A few touch ups were necessary.

I used an airbrush to paint the grass with three different colors. Vallejo Light Green Chromate (71.006), Camouflage Medium Brown (71.038) and Beige (71.074).

I started with the green, then added beige, followed by brown. I sprayed a light, diluted coat in a random pattern to highlight a few spots here and there.

N Scale Diorama: Grass / Conclusions

I like the result. The final airbrush touch-ups helped break up the uniform color and add more variation and more realism.

Once again, working on an N Scale diorama proved to be a smart choice for experimenting with static grass. Before committing to applying grass on the full SP Burbank Branch in N scale layout, I fine-tuned the technique on a disposable base.

Laying Tracks Final Steps

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Final steps with laying tracks on the SP Burbank Branch N scale layout

The final steps of laying tracks is one of my favorite aspect of the hobby. It’s when the layout starts to take shape, and the first test operations can take place. At this point all trackwork is done, but the staging and the LA River bridge.

I finished laying track for the spurs, here pictured are the Team Track and Hendrick’s Builders Supply.

Laying tracks final steps

Then, I laid the curve on the west end of the layout – near the Oroweat Bakery and Terry Lumber spurs. First I test-fit the curve.

Curve near the Oroweat Bakery and Terry Lumber spurs

Then I laid EVA foam roadbed.

Laying EVA foam roadbed

Then I laid track and connected the feeders, soldered under the rails.

Laying tracks final steps

I used metal weights to hold the track firmly in place while the glue dried.

Using metal weights to keep the track firmly down, while glue dries.

Staging

While the removable (foldable) staging isn’t ready yet, I started figuring out the mechanical connection. I screwed two brass screws into the roadbed and plywood subroadbed, then soldered the rails right on top of them.

This should keep the track from shifting and create a solid connection between the layout and the foldable staging yard.

Rails soldered to brass screws.

Power Breakers

Each section of flextrack and each turnout have their own feeders. I also divided the layout into three separate DCC districts, each managed by an NCE EB-1 Electronic Breaker.

Should a short circuit occur in one power district, its dedicated power breaker would cut power to that district, while the other two would remain operational

Power districts schematics

Wiring

Keeping wiring tidy and well-organized is crucial for troubleshooting. I’ve connected LEDs to each power line – for the Tortoise switch machines and the layout lights – by screwing them onto the terminal connectors. This allows me to instantly see if a section loses power.

Laying tracks final steps: wiring
Laying tracks final steps

Laying Tracks Final Steps

Here’s a panoramic view of my N scale switching layout with the track laid so far. Next step is to install the LA River section with its bridge and connect the missing piece of flextrack.

Panoramic view of the layout
Panoramic view of the layout with notes

West-end of the layout.

West-end of the layout

East-end of the layout.

East-end of the layout

After that, I’ll assemble and install the foldable staging yard.

Repainting and Weathering a Covered Hopper

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Follow along the process of repainting and weathering a covered hopper in N scale.

I purchased an Atlas CSX ACF 2-bay covered hopper car on eBay at a good price. The car type suits my era and prototype, but the road name (CSX) is too modern for the 1970s. A covered hopper painted and lettered for the Southern Pacific will be a much better match, to use on my N scale layout.

Repainting a covered hopper: Atlas CSX ACF 2-bay covered hopper

I also replaced the trucks with Micro-Trains trucks with couplers.

Paint stripping

The first step is to strip the paint from the car. Before soaking it in 99% isopropyl alcohol for about 24 hours, I disassembled the trucks and removed the roof walkways for better results. I used a glass jar with a rubber-sealed lid.

Repainting a covered hopper: paint stripping

To streamline the repainting process, I soaked multiple car shells in alcohol to work on them simultaneously. As shown below, there are three ACF 2-bay covered hoppers to be repainted and lettered for SP, along with three 57′ mechanical reefers destined for Southern Pacific Fruit Express.

More cars soaked in alcohol for paint stripping.

Removing the paint

After soaking the car, I carefully removed all the paint using a cotton swab and more isopropyl alcohol.

Manual paint stripping
Manual paint stripping with cotton swab

Repainting and weathering a covered hopper: preparation

Paint stripping doesn’t need to be flawless, but it’s important to remove as much paint as possible, especially from the recessed areas of the shell. The ladders on the covered hoppers proved challenging, but with patience, I managed to get the job done.

Car shells ready to be primed with Vallejo White Primer

Once completely dry, I sprayed a coat of Vallejo acrylic White Primer using an airbrush. From my experience, Vallejo primers clog the airbrush, even with added thinner. However, adding too much thinner compromises the primer’s coverage on the plastic.

I had to clean the airbrush a couple of times while painting the six cars’ shells to get a smooth result. Next time I’ll try with a few drops of the Vallejo Flow Improver.

Shells primed and ready to be painted

Repainting and weathering a covered hopper with the proper color

After the primer has dried, I mixed 2 parts Vallejo Dark Grey Blue (71.054) and 8 part Vallejo White (71.001) acrylic paints and painted the car using an airbrush.

ACF 2-bay covered hopper painted a basic gray.

Gloss clear paint coat and waterslide decals

Applying waterslide decals starts with a coat of gloss clear paint.

ACF 2-bay covered hopper painted gloss clear.

This ensures the decals adhere smoothly to the surface, reducing the risk of air bubbles or silvering. To apply the decals, first cut them out carefully, staying close to the printed edges for a clean finish.

Soak the decals in warm water for 10–15 seconds, just enough to loosen them from the backing paper without over-soaking. Gently slide the decal onto the car, positioning it with a soft brush or tweezers. For tricky areas, use a decal-setting solution to help the decal conform to surface details like rivets or panel lines. I typically use Microscale Micro Set, while Microscale Micro Sol is invaluable for applying decals to irregular surfaces, creating a seamless painted-on appearance.

Applying Southern Pacific Microscale waterslide decals

Once positioned, lightly dab with a cotton swab to remove excess water and make sure the decal sits flush. Allow the decals to dry completely before applying a final coat of clear matte to seal and protect them.

Repainting a covered hopper: decals applied.

Once the decals dried, I sealed them with Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear.

Flat cleat coat to seal the decals

Weathering

I used a combination of techniques to weather the covered hoppers. The first light layer of grey / tan has been applied with an airbrush.

I removed the wheels and masked the Micro-Trains couplers and the inner panels of the trucks to protect the wheel pin areas.

I used a fine brush and oil paints to add rust dots and streaks. Then I sealed the weathering with Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear paint.

Weathered N Scale 2-Bay Covered Hopper