First running test on the SP Burbank Branch in N scale switching layout.
After completing 90% of the trackwork, I performed a first running test to check the work done so far. Turnouts were of course under close examination. A few spots revealed two things:
Atlas code 55turnout quality control isn’t perfect. In a few cases, the guard rails were slightly too close to the stock rail, as confirmed with an NMRA gauge.
I need to check the wheelset gauge on a few locomotives, as they don’t appear to have been set correctly at the factory. I’ll be using an NMRA gauge for this.
Video
Overall the test went well, and I was able to simulate a short switching operating session.
It’s essential to get reliable operations on a layout, especially in smaller scales like N. The first test run offered valuable insight into both track and rolling stock performance.
While a few adjustments are still needed, it’s encouraging to see the layout begin to function as intended. With minor fine-tuning, the SP Burbank Branch will soon be ready for smooth and reliable operations.
Step-by-step on scratchbuilding a structure with styrene
I had wanted to embark into scratchbuilding a styrene structure for years but never did it properly. This time, I decided to model the Hendricks Builders Supply Company in Lankershim/North Hollywood.
This structure will be placed on the layout according to the trackplan.
Drawing
I started by drawing a rough plan on millimeter graph paper.
Two 2.5 mm strips also reinforce the middle of the structure.
I made the wooden door from clapboard styrene sheet and glued it inside the wall. On the outside, I added vertical styrene strips for detail. For smaller pieces, I used Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement.
To strengthen the loading platform, I inserted reinforcement strips underneath.
Then, I glued the platform to the main structure.
Before adding the roof, I reinforced the center with a triangular styrene piece.
Scratchbuilding a structure: Lighting
I wanted interior lighting, so I mounted a warm-white LED onto a small styrene support.
Roof
Then, I installed the roof. I used Vallejo Plastic Putty to fill a few gaps in the roof joint.
I spray-painted the interior walls black to prevent light from bleeding through the thin styrene.
I started weathering the walls by applying a dark brown acrylic wash.
Next, I added more streaks of brown paint to weather the roof.
Then, I glued the windows and the door in place. I used products made by the German firm Auhagen.
I added a piece of clear plastic to the inside of the windows.
Next, I applied the “Hendricks Builders Supply” sign on the structure side.
Here is a test-fit on the final location on the Burbank Branch in N scale layout.
Scratchbuilding a structure has been a rewarding project. While I had scratchbuilt a few simple structures before, this is the first time I completed a slightly more complex one.
The structure is not a perfect replica of the real thing; however, it works well as a rail-served industry and adds to the visual experience during operating sessions.
Adding a fascia gives the layout a clean, finished appearance. It also frames the scene and hides wiring underneath. The fascia also gives me a place to mount toggles and labels without cluttering the scene. I kept the design simple, just enough to tidy up without overcomplicating things.
Toggle switches for turnouts are mounted near the turnout they control, making access easier and the track plan more intuitive. I designed a recessed mount for the toggle switch, which I plan to 3D print and install behind the fascia.
The recessed controls help keep the fascia flat and avoid accidental bump or damage during operating sessions.
I use Autodesk Fusion for 3D drawings. The personal edition is free for non-commercial use.
Power District Reset Button
I also installed red LEDs – one for each DCC power district – along with a push-button to reset the power breakers after a short.
I’ll fill the gaps in the curved section of the fascia with precisely cut extruded foam board.
NCE UTP Panels
Next, I measured and cut an opening for the NCE UTP panels, where the throttles will connect. Then, I used a Dremel with the appropriate bit to make the cut cleanly.
I refined the opening with a rasp. Then, I drilled four pilot holes for the NCE mounting plate.
The image below shows the NCE UTP Panel installed from the inside of the fascia.
In the end, the fascia helps the layout feel finished, even while things are still in progress. It’s a small touch, but it goes a long way toward visual consistency and reliability.
The fascia adds both function and polish to the layout. Therefore, it hides clutter and supports controls. In addition, it frames the scene beautifully. I installed toggles and panels cleanly and efficiently. As a result, the layout looks more finished and cohesive, and overall operations feel easier and more enjoyable.
Trackwork fine tuning: adding both visual and operational details to N scale code 55 tracks.
Trackwork fine tuning is crucial for reliable operations. This is especially true in N scale. I added small pieces of styrene to fill gaps at rail joints, helping wheels roll smoothly. The styrene is fixed in place with CA glue, then carefully carved to shape with a sharp hobby knife.
I also replaced the ties I had removed when soldering feeders to the underside of the rails. In the photo, you can see sections where ties were temporarily removed for easier soldering.
First, I sanded the ties to remove the molded spike details. I laid a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the ties across it.
Once the spikes were gone, I test-fitted the ties under the rails.
Then I applied a few drops of Titebond glue and slid the ties into place, adjusting the position as needed.
Once painted and ballasted, these small fixes will be barely noticeable.
These small improvements may seem minor, but they make a big difference in how smooth trains run. On an N scale switching layout, reliable operations depend on well-prepared trackwork and solid electrical connections.
Nothing ruins the flow of a session like derailments or stalling at a poorly aligned joint. Paying attention to these details brings your layout closer to realistic railroad performance.
Clean solder joints and neatly replaced ties also enhance the visual appeal of your track. Each detail you refine adds to the overall reliability and realism of your scene.
Good trackwork is the backbone of stress-free operations. Investing time early pays off later when the layout runs smoothly without surprises. For N scale, especially, precision matters – both for looks and reliable running.
On this second part we’ll focus on applying static grass with a Noch Gras-Master 3.0 applicator.
I applied a first layer of 2 mm Woodland Scenics Straw static grass mixed with some Noch 2 mm green static grass, using Liquitex Matte Medium to glue it in place. I brushed on a random patch of glue, then loaded the Gras-Master with static grass and applied it over the glued area.
After the glue had dried, I applied a second layer of matte medium in a random patchwork and added 7 mm Woodland Scenics Straw static grass.
To create some variety, I mixed Light Green and Straw Woodland Scenics static grass. I applied both 7mm and 4mm layers.
Honestly, the result wasn’t as good as I’d hoped. I had better outcomes on previous layouts. The problem seems to be the sieve filters I used for the 7mm grass – the finest one isn’t ideal. I also switched to a 9V DC external power supply instead of using a battery.
Alternative Sieves and External Power Supply
Here’s the result of applying a mix of Light Green, Medium Green, and Straw static grass in roughly random proportions. I applied separate layers of 7mm and 4mm grass in different spots. I also kept the ground clip close to the applicator and moved it along during application.
Overall I am quite satisfied, but I wanted to add more variety to the grass. A few touch ups were necessary.
I started with the green, then added beige, followed by brown. I sprayed a light, diluted coat in a random pattern to highlight a few spots here and there.
N Scale Diorama: Grass / Conclusions
I like the result. The final airbrush touch-ups helped break up the uniform color and add more variation and more realism.
Once again, working on an N Scale diorama proved to be a smart choice for experimenting with static grass. Before committing to applying grass on the full SP Burbank Branch in N scale layout, I fine-tuned the technique on a disposable base.
Final steps with laying tracks on the SP Burbank Branch N scale layout
The final steps of laying tracks is one of my favorite aspect of the hobby. It’s when the layout starts to take shape, and the first test operations can take place. At this point all trackwork is done, but the staging and the LA River bridge.
I finished laying track for the spurs, here pictured are the Team Track and Hendrick’s Builders Supply.
Then, I laid the curve on the west end of the layout – near the Oroweat Bakery and Terry Lumber spurs. First I test-fit the curve.
Then I laid EVA foam roadbed.
Then I laid track and connected the feeders, soldered under the rails.
I used metal weights to hold the track firmly in place while the glue dried.
Staging
While the removable (foldable) staging isn’t ready yet, I started figuring out the mechanical connection. I screwed two brass screws into the roadbed and plywood subroadbed, then soldered the rails right on top of them.
This should keep the track from shifting and create a solid connection between the layout and the foldable staging yard.
Power Breakers
Each section of flextrack and each turnout have their own feeders. I also divided the layout into three separate DCC districts, each managed by an NCE EB-1 Electronic Breaker.
Should a short circuit occur in one power district, its dedicated power breaker would cut power to that district, while the other two would remain operational
Wiring
Keeping wiring tidy and well-organized is crucial for troubleshooting. I’ve connected LEDs to each power line – for the Tortoise switch machines and the layout lights – by screwing them onto the terminal connectors. This allows me to instantly see if a section loses power.
Laying Tracks Final Steps
Here’s a panoramic view of my N scale switching layout with the track laid so far. Next step is to install the LA River section with its bridge and connect the missing piece of flextrack.
West-end of the layout.
East-end of the layout.
After that, I’ll assemble and install the foldable staging yard.
Follow along the process of repainting and weathering a covered hopper in N scale.
I purchased an Atlas CSX ACF 2-bay covered hopper car on eBay at a good price. The car type suits my era and prototype, but the road name (CSX) is too modern for the 1970s. A covered hopper painted and lettered for the Southern Pacific will be a much better match, to use on my N scale layout.
I also replaced the trucks with Micro-Trains trucks with couplers.
Paint stripping
The first step is to strip the paint from the car. Before soaking it in 99% isopropyl alcohol for about 24 hours, I disassembled the trucks and removed the roof walkways for better results. I used a glass jar with a rubber-sealed lid.
To streamline the repainting process, I soaked multiple car shells in alcohol to work on them simultaneously. As shown below, there are three ACF 2-bay covered hoppers to be repainted and lettered for SP, along with three 57′ mechanical reefers destined for Southern Pacific Fruit Express.
Removing the paint
After soaking the car, I carefully removed all the paint using a cotton swab and more isopropyl alcohol.
Repainting and weathering a covered hopper: preparation
Paint stripping doesn’t need to be flawless, but it’s important to remove as much paint as possible, especially from the recessed areas of the shell. The ladders on the covered hoppers proved challenging, but with patience, I managed to get the job done.
Once completely dry, I sprayed a coat of Vallejo acrylic White Primer using an airbrush. From my experience, Vallejo primers clog the airbrush, even with added thinner. However, adding too much thinner compromises the primer’s coverage on the plastic.
I had to clean the airbrush a couple of times while painting the six cars’ shells to get a smooth result. Next time I’ll try with a few drops of the Vallejo Flow Improver.
Repainting and weathering a covered hopper with the proper color
Applying waterslide decals starts with a coat of gloss clear paint.
This ensures the decals adhere smoothly to the surface, reducing the risk of air bubbles or silvering. To apply the decals, first cut them out carefully, staying close to the printed edges for a clean finish.
Soak the decals in warm water for 10–15 seconds, just enough to loosen them from the backing paper without over-soaking. Gently slide the decal onto the car, positioning it with a soft brush or tweezers. For tricky areas, use a decal-setting solution to help the decal conform to surface details like rivets or panel lines. I typically use Microscale Micro Set, while Microscale Micro Sol is invaluable for applying decals to irregular surfaces, creating a seamless painted-on appearance.
Once positioned, lightly dab with a cotton swab to remove excess water and make sure the decal sits flush. Allow the decals to dry completely before applying a final coat of clear matte to seal and protect them.
Once the decals dried, I sealed them with Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear.
Weathering
I used a combination of techniques to weather the covered hoppers. The first light layer of grey / tan has been applied with an airbrush.
I removed the wheels and masked the Micro-Trains couplers and the inner panels of the trucks to protect the wheel pin areas.
I used a fine brush and oil paints to add rust dots and streaks. Then I sealed the weathering with Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear paint.
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