Trackwork fine tuning: adding both visual and operational details to N scale code 55 tracks.
Trackwork fine tuning is crucial for reliable operations. This is especially true in N scale. I added small pieces of styrene to fill gaps at rail joints, helping wheels roll smoothly. The styrene is fixed in place with CA glue, then carefully carved to shape with a sharp hobby knife.
I also replaced the ties I had removed when soldering feeders to the underside of the rails. In the photo, you can see sections where ties were temporarily removed for easier soldering.
First, I sanded the ties to remove the molded spike details. I laid a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the ties across it.
Once the spikes were gone, I test-fitted the ties under the rails.
Then I applied a few drops of Titebond glue and slid the ties into place, adjusting the position as needed.
Once painted and ballasted, these small fixes will be barely noticeable.
These small improvements may seem minor, but they make a big difference in how smooth trains run. On an N scale switching layout, reliable operations depend on well-prepared trackwork and solid electrical connections.
Nothing ruins the flow of a session like derailments or stalling at a poorly aligned joint. Paying attention to these details brings your layout closer to realistic railroad performance.
Clean solder joints and neatly replaced ties also enhance the visual appeal of your track. Each detail you refine adds to the overall reliability and realism of your scene.
Good trackwork is the backbone of stress-free operations. Investing time early pays off later when the layout runs smoothly without surprises. For N scale, especially, precision matters – both for looks and reliable running.
Final steps with laying tracks on the SP Burbank Branch N scale layout
The final steps of laying tracks is one of my favorite aspect of the hobby. It’s when the layout starts to take shape, and the first test operations can take place. At this point all trackwork is done, but the staging and the LA River bridge.
I finished laying track for the spurs, here pictured are the Team Track and Hendrick’s Builders Supply.
Then, I laid the curve on the west end of the layout – near the Oroweat Bakery and Terry Lumber spurs. First I test-fit the curve.
Then I laid EVA foam roadbed.
Then I laid track and connected the feeders, soldered under the rails.
I used metal weights to hold the track firmly in place while the glue dried.
Staging
While the removable (foldable) staging isn’t ready yet, I started figuring out the mechanical connection. I screwed two brass screws into the roadbed and plywood subroadbed, then soldered the rails right on top of them.
This should keep the track from shifting and create a solid connection between the layout and the foldable staging yard.
Power Breakers
Each section of flextrack and each turnout have their own feeders. I also divided the layout into three separate DCC districts, each managed by an NCE EB-1 Electronic Breaker.
Should a short circuit occur in one power district, its dedicated power breaker would cut power to that district, while the other two would remain operational
Wiring
Keeping wiring tidy and well-organized is crucial for troubleshooting. I’ve connected LEDs to each power line – for the Tortoise switch machines and the layout lights – by screwing them onto the terminal connectors. This allows me to instantly see if a section loses power.
Laying Tracks Final Steps
Here’s a panoramic view of my N scale switching layout with the track laid so far. Next step is to install the LA River section with its bridge and connect the missing piece of flextrack.
West-end of the layout.
East-end of the layout.
After that, I’ll assemble and install the foldable staging yard.
I started test-fitting Atlas Code 55 turnouts and Micro Engineering Code 55 flextrack. I had used this combination on a larger N scale SP layout, and it worked well.
Unlike previous projects, I bought a Xuron cutter this time – specifically the 2175B model, which also suits N scale track.
I used to cut rail with a Dremel and cutting disk, but the Xuron cutter feels much more comfortable.
While waiting for the EVA foam roadbed glue to cure, I soldered feeders to the rails using a 15W soldering iron and rosin core flux.
To make wiring easier, I flipped the base upside down. It isn’t screwed to the benchwork yet, so this was simple.
Next, I glued the track to the roadbed using a thin layer of acrylic caulk.
The main line and sidings are now in place. I’ll lay the spurs for Hendrick’s Supply Builders, Oroweat Bakery, and the Team Track next.
The team track will be wired through a DPDT switch, so it can also serve as a DCC programming track.
I used terminal strips and cable ties to organize the wiring. The wires hanging under the layout connect to the DPDT switches that control the Tortoise switch machines.
Then, these switches will be mounted on the fascia.
Wiring and laying tracks on a small switching layout requires planning, patience, and flexibility. Each step builds the foundation for smooth operations later on.
Using the right tools and techniques helps avoid frustration and saves time. As the layout grows, keeping things neat and modular makes future changes much easier.
With the basics in place, I’m excited to shift focus to detailing and fine-tuning operations.
I started laying tracks across most of my N scale layout. When needed, I flipped the plywood base upside down to handle wiring and install the Tortoise switch machines more comfortably.
Roadbed
To start, I used 2mm EVA foam strips for the roadbed. I glued them down with Titebond Original Wood Glue. For simplicity and a prototypical look, I laid the roadbed only under the mainline. Sidings and spurs will go directly onto the plywood.
Laying Tracks and Wiring
Next, I soldered 24AWG feeders to the underside of the rails. I drilled holes through the roadbed to connect the feeders to the DCC bus.
To secure the track, I applied a thin layer of acrylic caulk using a putty knife. I then placed metal blocks on top to hold the rails in position as the caulk dried.
Switch Machines
Once the track was down, I flipped the base again to install the Tortoise switch machines. I also connected the feeders and ran the DCC bus wires.
Afterward, I inserted the piano wire into the hole in the turnout’s throwbar.
I then screwed the switch machine to the plywood base and connected it using ZipZ solderless connectors.
Each Tortoise is controlled by a DPDT toggle switch and powered by a 12V DC supply
Power Supply
I installed two 3A 12V DC power supplies under the layout – one for the switch machines, and the other for layout lighting. This includes LEDs in buildings, vehicles, and streetlights.
To monitor power delivery, I added a main switch to each 12V output. These switches illuminate an LED when active. I’ll mount both switches and LEDs on the fascia for easy access.
Trackwork Fine Tuning
The first section of tracks on my N scale layout is complete. Track has been laid, wiring is done and the first turnout is controlled by a properly installed Tortoise switch machine.
Here is the Conrock and Skyline ready-mix concrete spur.
I used thin pieces of styrene to shim tracks. One for the transition in track height from mainline (photo below, bottom) to the Conrock spur (photo below, top), and another one at the end of the same spur to keep the track level.
Wiring should be neat and well-organized to make troubleshooting easier if problems occur. Here is how I managed wiring on the Burbank Branch in N scale.
The trackwork phase marks a major milestone in building the layout, which is now coming together with solid progress.
Careful planning now will ensure smoother operations and fewer issues later and sets the foundation for future scenery and detailing.
Transfer the trackplan on plywood and start wiring the DCC and DC buses
Trackplan
I used masking tape to transfer the trackplan onto the plywood base, then started wiring the DCC and accessory DC buses.
What works on paper doesn’t necessarily translate well to the layout. I like to use masking tape to sketch a rough version of the trackplan directly on the plywood subroadbed, allowing me to test-fit curves, sidings and spurs.
Wiring
There are three main buses running under the layout:
12VC DC bus for lighting, including streetlights and structure lights, using 0.75mm² wires (18 AWG)
I flipped the plywood base and started fixing the bus wires in a temporary, untidy manner. I will clean up the wiring once all the track feeders and Tortoise switch machines are installed, so that I can determine the correct length for each wire.
To tap power without cutting or stripping main wires, I used suitcase connectors – quick, reliable, and ideal for temporary setups. They let me add feeders or accessories on the fly, which is perfect while I’m still fine-tuning the layout.
This approach saves time now and prevents headaches later when the layout is more complete.
Wiring the layout with DCC and accessory power requires both solid planning and a bit of foresight. I installed a robust DCC bus using heavy-gauge wire for consistent power delivery, with feeders soldered in regularly to avoid voltage drops.
Accessory wiring, like 12V DC lines for Tortoise machines and lighting, runs separately for clarity and ease of troubleshooting.
While the system is built to be dependable, I’ve allowed for future adjustments – leaving a bit of slack, labeling connections, and routing wires with accessibility in mind. Layouts evolve, and the wiring can too.
Part I: Building an N scale diorama to test my modeling skills
Before committing to adding scenery to the layout, I want to build an N scale diorama featuring a section of track with ballast, a road, vegetation, and a few details.
It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it should serve as a test of my modeling skills after a 15-year hiatus from model railroading.
Basic Trackwork
I glued a strip of EVA foam to a piece of plywood, then secured a section of Micro Engineering Code 55 flex track, which I’ll be using on the layout.
Painting
Next, I painted the track Railroad Tie Brown. I had two Polly Scale bottles from the late 2000s, and both held up surprisingly well.
Ballast
The next step was ballasting the track using Woodland Scenics Buff B1373. I used a technique I have relied on for years – first spreading the ballast over the track, then using both a soft brush and my fingers to evenly distribute it between the ties.
Then, I misted the ballasted track with a 50/50 mix of water and 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, letting it soak for a minute. After that, I used a syringe to apply a 50/50 mix of water and matte medium, slowly sliding it along the rails to glue down the ballast.
Here is the result of the N scale diorama with ballast after the glue have dried.
Weathering the N scale diorama track
For increased realism, I mixed dark brown powdered pigments with plaster of Paris in a 50/50 ratio to weather the area between the rails. Using a brush, I evenly distributed the mixture along the track with several strokes.
Then, I misted the track with water, allowing the plaster to react and permanently set the weathering in place.
Starting Over the N Scale Diorama
Well, I wasn’t happy with the result. The ballast wasn’t evenly distributed, and some grains ended up on top of the ties. I also applied too much matte medium, which left a visible film on the rail sides. Long story short – it was a failure.
And I’m glad I failed. I’d rather make mistakes on a small N scale diorama than on the actual layout. That’s exactly why I built it – to test my skills, learn, and improve. So, I scraped off the ballast, removed the track, and started over.
Referring to other model railroads
I looked through photos of my previous layouts, and to my surprise, the ballast work wasn’t as good as I remembered. It wasn’t terrible, but I now aim for better results. So, I started studying photos and videos of other modelers’ layouts and sought advice on online forums.
One key takeaway was to use less ballast and spread it as evenly as possible. A helpful trick is tapping the tops of the rails with the same teaspoon used to pour the ballast – this helps it settle and compact for a more realistic finish.
I removed the EVA foam and trimmed it to be slightly narrower. Then, I glued it back down and secured the flex track with white glue.
Glueing down the ballast
The track looks a lot better now. I mist the ballast with the same 50/50 water and alcohol mix, and let it soaked. This time I used another method for glueing the ballast, again thanks to an online model railroading forum member. They suggested to mist the ballast, instead of using a pipette or syringe. I used the same 50/50 water and matte medium mix.
Then, I let it dry for a day. It looks much better than the first attempt.
Weathering, Take two.
This time I used black powdered pigments, as brown blends better when mixed with yellow and it more suited for sidings or spurs. 50/50 mixed with plaster of Paris.
With the same technique, I distributed the pigments between the rails with a flat brush.
Then, I misted the diorama with water, allowing the Plaster of Paris in the pigment mix to bond and permanently fix the track weathering.
Here is the final result after the pigments dried and the rail heads were cleaned. Maybe I could have gone lighter with the soot and grease weathering between the rails or used a 30/70 pigment-to-plaster mix instead of 50/50.
A set of standards helps in building and operating a reliable model railroad layout
Before starting a model railroad layout construction, a set of standards should be established to ensure smooth operations. These standards apply to trackwork, rolling stock, wiring, and DCC. My bare minimum standards are:
Properly maintained and cleaned tracks (using white spirits and graphite)
By strictly adhering to these standards, you can ensure smooth operating sessions and, ultimately, an enjoyable and rewarding experience.
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