Painting an SP caboose, originally in Chessie System color scheme.

Step-by-step on painting an SP caboose. In the late 2000s, I was gifted an inexpensive (and rather imprecise) Chessie System caboose manufactured by Model Power. I wasn’t sure what to do with it until I found reference photos online. I discovered that some older cabooses were repainted with orange ends after 1955.

By the 1970s, it wasn’t uncommon to see these cabooses with their roofwalks and ladders removed. This inspired me to modify and repaint the caboose in Southern Pacific’s brown and Daylight Orange scheme, to use it on my N scale layout.

I know this model isn’t a perfect replica of the C-40-1 class caboose I’m aiming for, but I’m willing to accept the compromise. This project is a great opportunity to learn new techniques and, most importantly, have fun.

Filling holes

To fill the holes left in the roof after removing the roofwalks, I used Tamiya Putty.

Using a hobby knife, I removed the ladders from the end platforms, leaving only the brake wheel and a low handrail. I also removed the Rapido coupler from the truck to install a Micro-Trains 1015 body-mount knuckle coupler.

Painting an SP caboose

After filling the holes with putty and smoothly sanding them down, I painted the caboose. For the brown, I mixed two Vallejo Model Air colors, adding a few extra drops of Vallejo Brown RLM26 (71.105) to Vallejo Camouflage Medium Brown (71.038) instead of using a 1:1 ratio.

I then masked the shell for the Daylight Orange coat. I used Tamiya 6mm masking tape along with a wider masking tape purchased from a DIY store.

To paint the ends Daylight Orange, I used a very old bottle of (now discontinued) Polly Scale SP Daylight Orange that I’ve had since the mid-2000s. I carefully stirred the paint for a few minutes and thinned it at a 2:3 ratio (two parts paint and three parts thinner). Since the paint had aged poorly, I applied it in thin layers to achieve a smooth finish.

The shell is painted, and now I’m ready to paint the chassis. The stairs and the end platform will be painted brown.

After the paint have dried, I applied a coat of gloss varnish.

Lettering (applying waterslide decals)

To apply the decals, I first cut them out carefully, staying close to the printed edges for a clean finish.

I soaked the decals in warm water for 10-15 seconds, just enough to loosen them from the backing paper without over-soaking. I gently slide the decal onto the car, positioning it with a soft brush or tweezers.

For tricky areas, I used Microscale Micro Set decal-setting solution to help the decal conform to surface details like rivets or panel lines. For the most difficult irregular surfaces I used Microscale Micro Sol, to soften the decals for a few seconds before applying it.

Once positioned, I lightly dabbed with a cotton swab or soft cloth to remove excess water and ensure the decal sits flush.

I allowed the decals to dry completely before applying a final coat of clear matte to seal and protect them.

I painted the handrails white with a small paintbrush, using Vallejo white paint.

Trucks and Couplers

Trucks needed to be upgraded, so I used Micro-Trains 1184 (Bettendorf Switch Motion Caboose Trucks). I also installed Micro-Trains 1015 body-mount couplers.

Weathering

I started by applying AK Paneliner (Black) brushing it onto every panel line. Before proceeding, I removed the wheel axles and the couplers.

I then masked the sides of the trucks where the axle points sit.

Then, I applied a thinned layer of tan paint (20% paint, 80% thinner). I had an old Acqueous Hobby Color that was still in great condition, so I used it. Several thin layers have been applied to the lower part of the body and trucks to simulate dust accumulation from operation.

I brushed the trucks with some brown powder, which has a very flat finish and effectively simulates layers of rust and grime.

I added streaks of dirt running down from the roof exhaust.

Then, I applied a coat of Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear to seal the weathering on the caboose.

Conclusion

While this model isn’t a perfect replica of the C-40-1 class caboose, I think it’s a great addition to the roster. Plus, it’s been a fun and quick project that I completed over the course of a few evenings.

Weathering flatcars to make plastic look like wood

Using acrylic paints, India ink, and a set of paintbrushes, you can achieve convincing results when weathering flatcars. I weathered the Atlas BN flatcar pictured below as well as an old Con-Cor SP flatcar, in service on my N scale layout.

I first removed the trucks with couplers, then proceeded using Vallejo acrylic colors.

The key is to work in light layers. For the Southern Pacific flatcar, which already had a brown base, I applied a wash of dark brown for added depth.

I used Vallejo colors: White (71.001), Uk BSC 64 Portland Stone (71.288), Beige (71.074), N. 41 Dark Olive Drab (71.316) and Dark Rust Wash (76.507). Additionally, I prepared a solution by mixing a couple of drops of Winsor & Newton India Ink with water and 10 drops of isopropyl alcohol. I painted each groups of 2-3 wooden planks in different shades to create natural variation.

Here is the Con-Cor SP flatcar receiving a wash of diluted black India ink.

I used Vallejo Retarder Medium (70.597) to extend the drying time of acrylics, making brushwork easier and more controlled. First, I applied a wash of White (71.001).

While Retarder Medium helps with layering by slowing down drying time, it also extends the overall drying process. I made sure the paint was completely dry before applying a wash of India ink, allowing it to seep into the gaps between the wooden planks by capillary action.

Then I carefully applied Vallejo Wash for rust effects, focusing on the area around rivets.

I applied another diluted, random layer of Mahogany (71.036) and N. 41 Dark Olive Drab (71.316) to tone down the red rust color.

Here is the BN flatcar after the paint has dried.

And here is the final result on the SP Con-Cor car. The goal was to create the look of old wooden planks weathered by the elements and stained by various load spills over time.